At some point, my cat figured out that she can wake me up in the morning to get food quicker. Every day thereafter, I had to get up at 6AM to feed her. I bought the Cat Mate C300 automatic feeder to address this problem, and it worked really well. Now my cat gets her food at 6AM and does not bother me about it. The only issue with the feeder is that there is no way to buy a second bowl for it. This is a problem, because I prefer to run my dishwasher overnight, and the only bowl is in the cat feeder at that time, so I can not throw it into the dishwasher.
Since there was no way to buy a spare dish/bowl for the feeder, I designed and 3D printed one. It works great, and I hope that it can be useful for somebody else, too.
Custom Mount for D'Addario Planet Waves Clip Free PW-CT-21 Guitar Tuner installed with a custom mount in use
I could not mount the D’Addario Planet Waves clip free guitar tuner (model PW-CT-21) onto the headstock of my travel guitar. The headstock of the guitar is so small that there is no way to attach it so that it would not interfere with the left hand. I designed and 3D printed this custom mount for the tuner to solve that issue. The mount places the tuner in between two tuning machines, raising the tuner just above the machines. The mount attaches with the two long wood screws supplied with the tuner.
I am sharing this design in the hopes that it may be useful to someone else. It is fully parametric, and, most likely, you only need to change one parameter – btwn_mounting_holes_oc, which is the distance between the two tuning machines mount holes, on center, measured as accurately as possible. You may also want to increase the height parameter if the mount is not tall enough, and the tuner does not clear the tuning machines.
Here is a simple 3D model for standing a shampoo, conditioner, detergent, or liquid soap bottle upside down. The diameter of the hole for the bottle cap is 31.5 mm. If you need a stand for a different diameter, let me know, and I’ll generate it, or you can download the Fusion 360 or STEP file and modify it yourself. I printed mine in white PETG with 15% infill.
I have been using the Articulating Pi Cam mount with my Prusa MK3S. The joints between the links were coming lose all the time, and the 3D-printed screws were breaking when I was trying to tighten them. I designed my own arm for the mount, which:
Uses metal M3 fasteners, which can be tightened properly so that they would not come lose,
Is more than twice lighter than the articulating arm,
Has a slightly bigger ball for the ball joint, to make that joint a little bit tighter,
Is compatible with the camera head from the articulating arm, so if you are already using the articulating arm, you can reuse the camera case from it.
This article describes a very simple way to level the bed on a Prusa MK3/S/+ virtually for free. I’ll show you how you can use a beer can to make metal shims, and then easily install those shims to achieve a nearly perfectly flat printing surface on your Prusa. I will also discuss the reasons to do (or not to do) this, and compare this method to the fairly popular “Nyloc Nod”.
I designed and printed a large New Year tree toper of Flying Spaghetti Monster emblem. This post is to share the devine noodly goodness (or is it godness) with the world. My 3D printer can print up to 25 cm by 21 cm, so this model is split in three parts to be glued together.
Frence for Kreg Mini jig, CAD rendering, main view
When looking for a pocket hole jig, I had difficulty choosing between the various versions Kreg offers. On the one hand, I wanted the Mini because it is the smallest jig that can get into tight places, and is very cheap. On the other hand, I wanted the jig to have a nice fence for easy, repeatable pocket holes. I decided to design my own fence system for the Kreg Jig Mini, which, I believe, is more flexible than the fence that comes with the Kreg Jig 320. The fence I designed allows for a greater range of adjustability and features alignment windows for precise positioning of the jig on a drawn pencil line.
Did you ever try to weigh a spool of filament on a small kitchen scale? If you lay it flat, you can’t see the scale’s display. If you try to stand it up, it rolls off the scale. This simple jig is designed to solve that problem. With it you can stand the spool of filament up on your small scale and easily read the scale.
I designed a thread stand to be used with thread cones and cross-wound thread spools (for sewing machines that don’t have horizontal spool pins). To make the stand a bit more substantial, the base can be filled with something heavy, like sand, lead shot, or bearing balls. The conical spool cap has two diameters: wider for bigger spools, and narrower for smaller ones. To make it you need a 3D printer, some glue, and 12-gauge steel wire for the center pin and the arm.